Las Conchas Trail

New Mexico is a spectacular place to hike, but my current reigning champion of hikes is Las Conchas Trail, a picturesque marvel about 3.2 miles in total (there and back again) at a steady 8,400 feet in elevation. This is an easy, relaxing hike, and there is no need to rush because the payoffs are everywhere. Even the drive is breathtaking. So pack a lunch, take your time, and enjoy.

Heading west on U.S. 550 from Bernalillo, you'll pass several landmarks:

Zia Pueblo overlooks the highway from the top of a pale basalt mesa. It's small and magnificent, where the descendants of the Anasazi reside and where New Mexico's state symbol originates, the four-pronged red Zia sun on a field of yellow (four cardinal directions, four seasons of the year, four periods of each day, and four stages of life).
The towering Big Chief gas station sign made famous by Breaking Bad.
White Mesa looms to your left, marking the Ojito Wilderness Area, a fascinating place to hike and bike.

From a distance, you'll see the gorgeous rainbow cliff that marks the way to Jemez. After a series of slow downs, marked by flashing lights which you should take seriously, turn right onto Highway 4 and follow the winding road for about 30 miles.

Keep your eyes peeled for interesting rock formations across the farmland. As you pass through Jemez Pueblo, the terrain will grow redder, and then you'll crest a hill and see the breathtaking Mars-red rock formations of the Red Rocks area. On the weekends, it's a great place to stop for fry bread, chile, and other delicious food (if you're not in the middle of a pandemic). The Pueblo is closed to visitors now, but you can stop at the Visitor's Center and check out the small museum.

Visitor policy: https://www.jemezpueblo.org/visit/visitor-etiquette

As you pass through the village of Jemez Springs, you'll see numerous fishing and picnic spots between the road and the gorgeous, towering cliffs (see my unfiltered photo above). B&Bs and spas take advantage of the natural hot springs, the result of an active supervolcano system.

The bizarre, sulfuric Jemez Springs Soda Dam

Just outside the village, you'll pass the Jemez Springs Soda Dam, a geological oddity (see my photo above). A river gushes through the formation, while a hot spring bubbles from the top, forming a fascinating mineral umbrella. Despite the reek of sulfur, the Soda Dam is usually crawling with tourists, quite literally, so be sure to stop when it's not crowded and take heed if you're walking along the top. Pro tip: you can also explore the other side.

From there, the road climbs into the mountains, and you'll pass many campgrounds and hiking trails. There are too many to name, but Battleship Rock and Jemez Falls are the most popular destinations. The San Diego Canyon Overlook offers a short, uncrowded hike to a refreshing view of the mountainscape (see below).

A refreshing view from the San Diego Canyon Overlook

At last you'll arrive at Las Conchas Trailhead. To get started, you'll need to make a choice on which side of the river to start. The left side is more straightforward. The right side is fun to explore, but you'll quickly have to cross the river somehow--either by wading across or scaling a log. This is a popular rock-climbing destination, and you can usually see folks suspended like spiders among the tall rock formations.

This is only the beginning of your journey!

My photo above was taken from the beginning of the trail. This scenic hike follows the East Fork Jemez River, leading you through huge rock formations, the result of that supervolcano I mentioned, which form a unique canyon through the forests and meadows. You'll stroll by ponds where the river has carved into the cliffs, and you'll cross sturdy but bouncy wooden bridges (fun for the whole family!). You'll walk through meadows filled with wildflowers, where the winding river shines bright blue.

The wildlife here varies. There is a good chance you'll see domesticated cattle in the meadows, but the crowds will probably scare away deer and elk. Remember that this borders the Valles Caldera National Preserve, where black bears, golden eagles, coyotes, cougars, bobcats, and elk herds reside, so take the appropriate precautions (I'll post about the Caldera another time). Most likely you're going to see Eastern mountain bluebirds, chipmunks, and squirrels. Once, when I was first on the trail, I saw a huge red-tailed hawk take flight from a Ponderosa pine. On several occasions, I've seen mule deer near the road.

I've hiked the trail in all four seasons, and it's magnificent all year round. In the hot summer months, there is plenty of shade for the first third of the hike, but you're fully exposed in the meadows. In the fall, you can see the aspens and other foliage changing color. In the snowy season, the trail becomes a slick track of ice. So take proper precautions.

After about 1.5 miles, you'll reach a leisurely waterfall and a fence which marks the end of this hike. If you're more adventurous, you can climb a switchback out of the canyon and keep going. Otherwise, you can find a place to sit and enjoy the soothing waterfall (below) before strolling back the way you came.